Creole Sausage

I mentioned in the previous post that I became interested in making sausage by finding historic recipes in old cookbooks that I collect. That prompted an inquiry about the recipe for Chaurice. I'll share my personal recipe that was developed based on the few recipes I was able to locate in older books. Before I do that, I would like to give a brief overview of charcutrie in Louisiana.

In simple terms, you can separate "Cajun" and "Creole" into "Country" and "City" (it's an oversimplification, but it will suffice for our purposes here). The Cajuns were of predominantly French decent with a sprinkling of German heritage. The very best Andouille is found in LaPlace, LA which is adjacent to Des Allemands (literally "The Germans" in French) along a stretch of the Mississippi river known as the "German Coast". The lore is that the Germans brought additional sausagemaking skills to the Cajuns. The Cajuns claim ownership of such products and Andouille, Boudin, Chaudin, Ponce, and Tasso. Because Cajun culture remains relatively undiluted, these traditional products are still made as they have been for 100+ years. West of Baton Rouge, one can spend a full day driving the coutryside and pondering the finer points of Boudin (save that argument for another day).

If you ever find yourself in New Orleans, it is worth the 40 minute drive to LaPlace to visit the twin meccas of Andouille, Jacob's and Bailey's. Both claim to be the "original". As I understand it, Bailey worked for old man Jacob. After the old man retired (died?) the kids changed the recipe to meet USDA regulations so that they could ship across state lines. Bailey was so disgusted, that he quit and opened up 50 yards away with the old recipe. So technically, both are correct. Jacob's has the original location and Bailey's has the original recipe.

In the late 1700's, the 1800's, and into early 1900's New Orleans was a city of great wealth. The Creoles built grand restaurants, such as Galatiore's, Antoine's, and Arnaud's, that are still with us today. The Creole culture has been diluted by wave upon wave of immigrants to the port city. Their cultural impact significantly eroded from 1900-1980, and was probably irreversibly damaged by hurricane Katrina. In books written from 1890-1960, you will find numerous references to "the good old days". I mentioned the Picayune Creole Cookbook in my prior post. I actually have two copies, the 1910 edition and the 1966 edition. The latter edition contains the same early sausage recipes, but adds that they are rarely made anymore and were only included "for historical interest".

In the 1950's, New Orleans chef Scoop Kennedy wrote the following reference to "the good old days":

"He remembers when the French Market of New Orleans was world famous. He remembers a lady who sat on a bench in the market at Madison and Decatur. She sold three articles and none other: pate de foie gras, hogshead cheese and hot sausage all homemade.

Most astonishing (and typical of the "old days") was the lady's personal pride in her products. Her stock was small and she sold it only to those whom she thought would appreciate them. In other words, she selected her customers. It was a type of beneficient snobbery. Like a queen she bestowed her favors with discrimination."

I think that it is important to remember the historical context of the old Creole recipes. In the 1800's and early 1900's, spices were very rare and expensive. The wealthy residents of New Orleans had the port to give them access to exotic spices and the money to afford them. In Jackson Square of the French Quarter, there is a restored home called the "1850 House" that is operated as a museum. In the house, one of the more interesting features is the spice safe. Highly seasoned food was a sign of affluence. One of the products of such seasoning was Chaurice. Here is my recipe for it:

Chaurice

• 10 LBS of Boston Butt
• 3 Cups of Onions, minced
• 2 Cups of Green Onions, minced
• 1/2 Cup of Fresh Garlic, minced (or run through a garlic press)
• 1/4 Cup Fresh Parsley, minced
• 4 Tablespoons of Kosher Salt
• 3 Tablespoons of Black Pepper
• 2 Tablespoons of Cayenne Pepper
• 2 Tablespoons of Thyme
• 1 Tablespoon of Crushed Pepper Flakes
• 8-12 oz of Ice Water (as needed)

Grind all ingredients through a medium plate. Mix thoroughly and stuff into medium hog casings. Arrange on a sheet pan and allow the sausages to mature overnight in the refrigerator.

Chaurice is used numerous ways. It can be smoked and used to make gumbos and jambalayas. To make a poor boy, it is grilled and sliced lengthwise, then served on toasted crusty French bread with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, and pickles. It is also served just grilled with Creole mustard for dipping.

Enjoy,

David